GLENCOE (Part 2)

by Steve Nelson

As Craig writes (in part 1), the whole party tackled Aonach Eagach on the Saturday. On Sunday Fionnuala, Liz, Jean, Brian and Joe took on the Ring of Steall in the Mamores. This was a more serious exercise than anticipated and the party had to omit Sgurr a’ Mhaim, eventually descending at 7 pm to dine in the Glen Nevis Youth Hostel. Jim was driven to Kinlochleven to deal with his missing Mamores on a walk over to Glen Nevis.

Dorothy, Adrian and I set out to climb the Buchaille via the Curved Ridge scramble. We found it without difficulties but our confidence was continually being shaken by other parties asking us the way and then asking if we were really, really sure this wasn’t Crowberry Tower, the complete ascent of which goes at V Diff, Severe or E3, depending on who was telling us. Curved Ridge is a very good scramble. While no individual move is horribly exposed, the view down the crag becomes dramatic as height is gained, and there is ample opportunity to observe the climbers at play on Crowberry Tower and other big walls.

Photo: Climbers at the top of Crowberry Tower (24k)

Towards the top there is a sequence of moves up a polished, exposed scoop. It is necessary to work them out in advance as three moves are needed between rests. Dorothy and Adrian found another way, which by their account of it was probably harder. The continuation scramble from the top of Curved Ridge onto Crowberry Tower looked tempting, but we were anxious to get to Stob na Broige, the newly-promoted Munro at the far end of the Buchaille and perhaps even to pick up the new one on Buchaille Etive Beg.

We had a lunch stop on the col between Crowberry Tower and the North Ridge of the Stob Dearg and then up onto the ridge, from where we had a grandstand view from above of a group reaching the top of the tower.As on the Saturday, we had clear weather and perfect conditions, with the view across to the Mamores and the Ben particularly good. From Stob Dearg we turned north west and made our way to our second objective, the recently-promoted Stob na Broige. By now it was well after 3 o’clock and we decided this was probably it for the day, since we had a long walk back to the cars without attempting to cross to Buchaille Etive Beg.

So we finished at a civilised hour, returned to the caravans, showered and changed and waited for the others to arrive. And waited. And waited. And went off to Onich for dinner without them. We got back just in time to take Liz to the Clachaig to catch last orders.

The forecast on Monday was for the weather to break. Joe and Dorothy had a ferry to catch. Others decided to go straight home, go shopping or watch England on telly (it was World Cup month). Liz and I decided to take in the Cobbler on the way south. By the time we got there it was overcast, with the highest peaks in cloud.

Photo: The Cobbler (21k)

The Cobbler was still clear and we set off, following a burn up through woodland and eventually emerging on grassy mountainside. We struck off left towards an obvious ridge leading to below the southern summit. As we were lunching the clouds blew across the Cobbler’s summit and the rain started. The cloud cleared and Liz tried to force a way directly up the southern summit. She came down again and we went round the back to come out on the central saddle level with the southern summit. We started up the ridge towards the central (main) summit, to be beaten back by lack of friction on the wet rock. Going round the back again we came level with the horribly exposed traverse which gives access to the summit. Pointless even to take a closer look in these conditions. The slabs of the northern summit gleamed wetly and I decided it was time to head down, aware of the long drives facing us at the end of the walk.

Below the main summit rocks we met a party of youngsters ascending amid a continuous whinge. We reassured the leaders it was worth going up the rocks but warned them they probably wouldn’t reach any of the summits, let alone the main one. Ten minutes later our attention was drawn by shouts from behind us. Looking round, we saw them waving to us from the northern summit.

I hit Glasgow at 5 o’clock - Gridlock. What a pity it was England playing and not Scotland.


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