GLYDER FACH

by Stephen Nelson

Roy and I met up at Ogwen Cottage and by 10:20 we were on our way up to Llyn Bochlwyd. The ground was dry; the clouds were covering the tops. Passing the llyn, we made our way up to the gap of Bwlch Tryfan. Our first objective was Bristly Ridge, unfinished business for me as on my first visit I accompanied one of the party who did not fancy the ridge up the screes and on my second I was just 4 days out from having had my back straightened and arguably should not have been on the hill at all.

Following the guidebook, we went up the right of the wall, then up a shallow gully. A couple of lads who had followed us set out up the prominent gully on the right, but we stuck to the guide and crossed the dry stone wall (very awkward and exposed, requiring use of normally forbidden appendages)

Photos: Roy on the entry pitch (73k) -- into Sinister Gully (62k)

The two lads retreated from what is I suppose Dexter Gully and followed us. The gully went nicely; there was a tricky move at 20 metres and after a further 10 we escaped left as the gully steepened, finding ourselves on a splendid little platform looking into the void, just below the cloudbase. The two lads had disappeared, presumably to follow the Miners’ Track. An exposed traverse on thin but positive holds took us back to the uppermost reaches of the gully, whence we climbed out onto the ridge.

We passed one minor pinnacle and made our way towards a more prominent one. This had a ridge coming up from the right which we crossed à cheval before climbing steeply down into the gap beyond. More easy scrambling brought us to the Great Pinnacle and Pinnacle Gap beyond it. This is an awesome sight, quite intimidating since the route is subtle and you can’t see it until you are on it. Then the way is clear and the holds are plentiful and obvious. We climbed out of Pinnacle Gap and the ridge petered out on the broad summit ridge of Glyder Fach. We picked up the main path and made our way past the Cantilever to the jumbled boulders of the summit. Having paid our respects we found a suitable spot for some refreshments.

A well-beaten cairned path leads across to Glyder Fawr, so there were no route-finding problems in spite of the cloud limiting the visibility. We visited both possible tops of Glyder Fawr, with my wrist barometer indicating that the second is probably the higher, although the difference was a mere millibar.

On our way down Glyder Fawr we missed the path and found ourselves on pathless terrain at Esgair Felen above the crags. Now we wanted to be at the bottom and weren’t too keen on taking the express route. By dint of altimeter, map and observation of the little terrain the cloud allowed us to see we decided we were 200m west of where we wanted to be and set off eastwards along the edge of the steep declivity. In one of those moments of pure magic the clouds parted and showed us the path below, and across up to Y Garn. Ahead of us we saw the main path with quite a few folk on it. The descent was steep and loose and I got out my trekking poles to help with the descent.

At Llyn yl Cwm we had a choice. Over Y Garn or down by the Devil’s Kitchen. A look at our watches decided us. It was still short of 2.30 and neither of us wanted to be down so early. Besides, I had never been to Y Garn. The way up the broad back of the thing was a bit of a slog and I understood why parties coming out to do just this hill would ascend the north-east ridge and come down this way. The slog lasted a mere 25 minutes before we were at the top.

Roy knows this area quite well and warned me off the first apparent descent path dropping to the right. The access was in any case blocked by the remains of the winter cornice. The second path followed the ridge proper down and after 500 feet of descent we came out of the cloud and stopped for more refreshment and to enjoy the view across Llyn Ogwen to the Carnedds. Atlantic Slabs were well to the fore on Carnedd Fach. I know of a stunning 1000-foot moderate on that face. It is calling me.

Eventually it was time to move. At the end the ridge steepened and again I was glad of my poles. We levelled out near to the outfall from Llyn Idwal and joined the main path back to Ogwen Cottage.

Bristly Ridge is unfinished business no more. However I am sure I will be back.


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